A traveler's guide to Algarve
Base in Lagos, Carvoeiro, or Tavira and move along the coast. The beaches are a string, not a single bay.
The Algarve is Portugal's south coast: a run of cliffs, caves, and small sands from Lagos toward the east. The water is cooler than the posters from farther south and clear enough to see your feet. The towns are for sardines and a slow evening.
When to go
Late spring and early autumn are warm and swimmable. July and August are busy and hot. The Atlantic is fresher than the Mediterranean. Winter is for walking, not for a long swim.
The beach
The famous beaches sit under cliffs, with a staircase and a limited patch of sand. Lagos's coves, Marinha, and Benagil's cave are the names. Tavira's island beach is longer and quieter. Tide and stairs are the logistics.
In the water
Kayaking into the caves is the signature hour, and it is better with a guide when the swell is up. Swimming is excellent in the sheltered coves. The west coast is a different ocean and often a surfing one.
If you only remember this
- Start early for Benagil. The beach and the boat both have a capacity.
- Rent a car. Trains skip the coves.
- Water shoes. The entries are rock.
- Reserve August dinners in Lagos. The town is smaller than the fame.