A traveler's guide to Athens
Do the ancient site first, while you are fresh and the ground is cooler. Athens after that is a food city with ruins in the background.
Athens is the rocks you came for and a Balkan capital underneath them. See the Acropolis early. Then let the city be neighborhoods, grilled meat, and a rooftop only if the view includes dinner worth eating. The coast is a tram ride when you need water.
When to go
Spring and fall are the walking seasons. Summer is hot, bright, and best with a siesta. Winter is mild and good for museums. August is when many Athenians leave and the rocks radiate heat.
Neighborhoods
The Acropolis, the museum, and Plaka once. Monastiraki for the flea energy. Pangrati, Koukaki, and Petralona for dinner. Exarchia if you want a younger, political night. Piraeus if you are catching a ferry, which is its own project.
Eating
Grill, Greek salad that is not a sad side, pies from a bakery, and a late meze if the table is full. The Acropolis-view tavernas vary wildly. Eat where the room is speaking Greek.
If you only remember this
- Book the Acropolis timed ticket.
- Marble is slippery. Wear shoes with a grip.
- Metro covers the airport and the sites.
- August heat is a health issue. Start early.