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two white-and-black Pandas lying on floor during daytime

A traveler's guide to Chengdu

Come hungry and slightly brave. Chengdu's reputation is the food, and the reputation is accurate.

Chengdu is the city people fly to for the pandas and stay in because they cannot stop eating. The heat in the food is the culture. So are teahouses and a night market rhythm. See the animals in the morning. Leave the rest of the day for the table.

When to go

Spring and fall are comfortable. Summer is humid. Winter is gray and mild compared with Beijing, which makes it a good hot-pot season. Rain is common. The panda base is better early in any month.

Neighborhoods

The panda base first thing. Kuanzhai and the older snack streets once, with skepticism about the most theatrical shops. Yulin and other local food streets at night. Parks for the morning the city actually lives. The new malls are impressive and optional.

Eating

Hot pot is a project: broth, oil, and an order of things you recognize plus one you do not. Mapo tofu, Zhong dumplings, and rabbit if you are in the right room. Spice is adjustable less often than visitors hope. Dairy and a mild dish on the table help.

If you only remember this

  • Book the panda base for the morning slot.
  • Carry tissues. Spice is a contact sport.
  • Metro is easy.
  • Tea in a park is the local luxury and it is cheap.