A traveler's guide to Edinburgh
Bring a layer and good shoes. Edinburgh is vertical, and the weather changes between the station and the castle.
Edinburgh is a walk between a castle rock and a new town of orderly streets. The views arrive for free if you are willing to climb. In August the city becomes a stage. The rest of the year it is moodier and, for many people, better.
When to go
May, June, and September are the sweet spots. August is the festivals: extraordinary and packed, with prices to match. Winter is dark, festive in December, and windy enough to make the castle feel earned. It can be cold in July.
Neighborhoods
The Royal Mile once, early. The New Town for geometry and shops. Stockbridge and Leith for the meal and a walk that feels residential. Arthur's Seat if you want the city at your feet and have the weather report.
Eating
Seafood in Leith, a pie, and a modern Scottish room that is done showing off the shortbread. Pub food varies from excellent to tired. Look for a full dining room of people who are not wearing lanyards.
If you only remember this
- Festival housing books months ahead.
- The hills are the sight. Comfortable shoes matter.
- Wind is the local climate. A shell beats an umbrella.
- Trains to the Highlands are a separate plan with weather of their own.