A traveler's guide to Hvar
Stay in Hvar town if you want the evening. Stay in Stari Grad if you want to sleep. Either way, the best water is a boat.
Hvar is the Adriatic island people mean when they say Croatian summer. The town is stone and a busy harbor. The beaches are mostly rock shelves and a few pebble coves, and the clearest water is a short boat from the quay. It is lively, and the outskirts are not.
When to go
June and September are the balance of warm water and fewer yachts. July and August are the season and the crowds. May is beautiful and a little cool for a long swim.
The beach
There is little classic sand. Dubovica and Mekicevica are the cove beaches. The town has swimming spots off the rocks with ladders and a very clear drop. Sun beds exist and are not required.
In the water
Clarity is the reputation. A taxi boat to the Pakleni islands is the standard excellent day. Swimming off the rocks is the free version. Water shoes save an afternoon.
If you only remember this
- Ferries from Split fill up in summer. Book the crossing.
- The town is walkable. A car is for the other side of the island.
- Reserve dinner in August or eat early.
- The harbor is loud at night. Sleep two streets back if that matters.