A traveler's guide to Kyoto
Kyoto's famous spots are famous for a reason and miserable at noon. Shift your clock: temples at opening, cafes in the afternoon, Gion after dinner.
Kyoto is Japan's memory palace: Fushimi Inari's gates, Arashiyama's bamboo, Gion after the tour groups leave. It is also a modern city with excellent coffee and a river to walk at dusk. Go early, go on foot, and leave the geisha-chasing to someone else.
Temple strategy
Do not try to see them all. Pick a cluster: Higashiyama (Kiyomizu, Sannenzaka), Arashiyama, or the northwest (Kinkaku-ji, Ryoan-ji). One cluster per day is plenty.
How to be a guest
Do not block geiko or maiko for photos. Do not touch vermilion gates. Speak quietly in temple grounds. A small bow at a shrine is enough; you do not need a costume.
Food
Tofu, kaiseki, matcha, and ramen all have a home here. Ponto-cho and Kiyamachi are pretty at night. For lunch, look for places full of local office workers, not kimono rentals.
If you only remember this
- The bus network is excellent; a day pass can pay off.
- Many temples charge a modest entry. Carry cash.
- Cherry blossom and autumn foliage weekends are a different city. Book months ahead.
- Osaka is 15 minutes by train if you want a louder night.