A traveler's guide to Lisbon
Respect the hills. A short distance on the map can be a staircase. That is the city, not an obstacle to it.
Lisbon is a port of miradouros, tiled staircases, and grilled fish. The center is steeper than the map. Ride the tram once for the story, then walk or use the funiculars. Evenings belong to neighborhoods, not to the most famous square.
When to go
Spring and early fall are ideal. Summer is busy and bright, with heat in the afternoon. Winter is mild, sometimes wet, and wonderful for fewer crowds. June's street festivals take over the nights.
Neighborhoods
Alfama and the castle hill in the morning. Chiado and Bairro Alto for the evening. Príncipe Real for a calmer walk. LX Factory or a riverside hour when you want contemporary Lisbon. Belém by tram or train, early.
Eating
Grilled sardines in season, a bifana, custard tarts from a serious shop, and seafood rice. The restaurants with someone outside grabbing sleeves are a warning. House wine is usually the right order.
If you only remember this
- A transit card covers trams, metro, and trains to Belém.
- Tram 28 is crowded. Ride it early or admire it and walk.
- Pickpockets like the tram and the miradouros.
- Cobblestones and heels are a poor match.