A traveler's guide to Milan
Give Milan credit for being a city, not a disappointment that it is not Florence. The pleasure is modern, edible, and well dressed.
Milan is not a toy historic center. It is a working northern city with one impossible cathedral, serious art, and aperitivo that can replace dinner if you let it. Stay for the neighborhoods. The Duomo is the opening scene.
When to go
Spring and fall are made for walking and fashion weeks, which also mean full hotels. Summer is hot and many locals leave in August. Winter is foggy and good for art and long lunches. Check the design-week calendar before you book.
Neighborhoods
The Duomo and the gallery street first. Brera for wandering. Navigli at night. Isola and Porta Nuova if you want the newer skyline. The fashion district is for looking. The meals are often better a little off it.
Eating
Risotto and cotoletta are the local arguments. Aperitivo boards can be dinner. Coffee is drunk standing and quickly. Book the serious table. An ordinary trattoria will still feed you better than a view bar.
If you only remember this
- Malpensa is far. The train is the move.
- August closures are real.
- The metro is simple.
- Fashion weeks change the price of everything.