A traveler's guide to Xi'an
Do the warriors early and carefully. Then come back and let the food city take over. Xi'an is hungrier than its monuments.
Xi'an was a capital when most cities on this list were ideas. The walls still stand, the Muslim quarter feeds you, and the terracotta army is a real half-day, not a picture you glance at. Stay inside the walls at night. The scale makes sense after dark.
When to go
Spring and fall are best. Summer is hot. Winter is cold and the wall is stark and uncrowded. Dust can show up in spring. The army site is outdoors in parts. Dress for standing.
Neighborhoods
Inside the walls for the hotel and the night. The Muslim quarter on one evening you keep open. The army and the surrounding museum as a dedicated morning. The Big Wild Goose Pagoda area is modern and easy, and less interesting after dark.
Eating
Hand-pulled noodles, lamb, breads from the quarter, and dumplings shaped like the lesson they are trying to teach you. Eat small and often. A single banquet is less fun than four snacks and a bowl.
If you only remember this
- The army is outside the walls. Go early.
- Bikes on the wall rent quickly on clear mornings.
- The quarter is crowded at dinner. Go hungry and patient.
- Metro covers the army now. Confirm the stop.